Tom Sietsema says, "The dude who makes arguably the best ramen in town, at Toki Underground, turns out to be pretty deft with Taiwanese and Cambodian dishes, too. Erik Bruner-Yang took seemingly forever to open his second restaurant on H Street NE, but our patience paid off. When Maketto began serving steamed buns with shredded pork and Khmer-style meat dip with crudite in April, the launch also unveiled...pedigreed pastries (Frenchie’s) and coffee (Vigilante) — lots to like under one cool roof. I’m usually here for dinner on the ground floor, somewhere in a dining room that starts with a bar and spills onto a patio followed by an open kitchen with slender counters. And if my job didn’t require me to eat the full menu, I could happily stick to just the fried, five-spice chicken, that warm dip enriched with coconut milk and curry, and a Wagyu bao platter that goes down like Asian roast beef sandwiches. Come with an open mind. Ground duck hearts, brined in nuoc cham and smoky from the grill, could become your new best friend."