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Guidebook for Cádiz

Martin

Guidebook for Cádiz

Food Scene
Always excellent food and service. The restaurant is great for a special occasion but the tapas bar is well priced. You must try the tortillitas de camarones here! Go early on busy days to get a place by the bar.
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Restaurante El Faro de Cádiz
15 Calle San Félix
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Always excellent food and service. The restaurant is great for a special occasion but the tapas bar is well priced. You must try the tortillitas de camarones here! Go early on busy days to get a place by the bar.
Cheap, cheerful, always busy due to consistently good quality and service. Nothing gourmet here, just good simple and fresh. Definitely get here early or book ahead.
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Bar Pajaro Pinto
12 Plaza Tío de la Tiza
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Cheap, cheerful, always busy due to consistently good quality and service. Nothing gourmet here, just good simple and fresh. Definitely get here early or book ahead.
Sightseeing
Great ambience here, kids playing, no cars, plenty of bars with outside seating to watch the world go by.
PLAZA DE MINA
13 Plaza de Mina
Great ambience here, kids playing, no cars, plenty of bars with outside seating to watch the world go by.
Parks & Nature
Beautiful botanical gardens to have a peaceful walk. Great for kids. Even a few cafes nearby to stop at or else the bar of the nearby Parador (if you want a G&T!).
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Parque Genovés
13 Av. Dr. Gómez Ulla
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Beautiful botanical gardens to have a peaceful walk. Great for kids. Even a few cafes nearby to stop at or else the bar of the nearby Parador (if you want a G&T!).
Our favourite restaurants
Try these, because no one should have to endure a bad meal in Cadiz!
Without doubt one of the best restaurants in Cádiz, if not Andalucía, and reasonably priced for the consistently excellent quality. The view was the main reason I bought the apartment, the second was its proximity to El Faro. I've been coming here since 2001 and have never had a bad meal. Fish is their specialty, but everything they do is excellent. They have a constantly changing menu depending on seasonal availability, as well as some constant favourites. Their amazing tortillitas de camarones are always one of the first things I order whenever I return to Cádiz. Excellent and reasonably priced wine list. By the way, if you ask for a purely English menu in El Faro it is doubtful that it will be up to date as it's just a generic version of what they normally have available. Get the Spanish menu too, do a bit of cross-checking and a bit of Googling if you need it! They also have a tapas bar next door, which serves the same excellent quality in smaller portions (tapas, raciones, media raciones). Starting with a tapa of their Salpicón de Marisco is a good choice! Ask also for their tapa of the day (tapa del día) at lunchtime, which I've always found to be excellent. Its standing room only in the bar, so arrive early to get yourself some space. I'm not a fan of the ubiquitous, cheap local white wine, Tierra Blanca which is served everywhere in Cádiz but their "Rueda" by the glass is ok. An excellent value white wine here is Jose Pariente (Rueda Verdejo) which they sell by the bottle for about €14 I think. To quote decantalo it is "Fresh, elegant and complex. Hints of pear and peach combined with citrus notes." Anyway, it goes really nicely with the seafood here.
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Restaurante El Faro de Cádiz
15 Calle San Félix
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Without doubt one of the best restaurants in Cádiz, if not Andalucía, and reasonably priced for the consistently excellent quality. The view was the main reason I bought the apartment, the second was its proximity to El Faro. I've been coming here since 2001 and have never had a bad meal. Fish is their specialty, but everything they do is excellent. They have a constantly changing menu depending on seasonal availability, as well as some constant favourites. Their amazing tortillitas de camarones are always one of the first things I order whenever I return to Cádiz. Excellent and reasonably priced wine list. By the way, if you ask for a purely English menu in El Faro it is doubtful that it will be up to date as it's just a generic version of what they normally have available. Get the Spanish menu too, do a bit of cross-checking and a bit of Googling if you need it! They also have a tapas bar next door, which serves the same excellent quality in smaller portions (tapas, raciones, media raciones). Starting with a tapa of their Salpicón de Marisco is a good choice! Ask also for their tapa of the day (tapa del día) at lunchtime, which I've always found to be excellent. Its standing room only in the bar, so arrive early to get yourself some space. I'm not a fan of the ubiquitous, cheap local white wine, Tierra Blanca which is served everywhere in Cádiz but their "Rueda" by the glass is ok. An excellent value white wine here is Jose Pariente (Rueda Verdejo) which they sell by the bottle for about €14 I think. To quote decantalo it is "Fresh, elegant and complex. Hints of pear and peach combined with citrus notes." Anyway, it goes really nicely with the seafood here.
Consistently great little modern bar and restaurant serving excellent food (sometimes with an Asian twist) and good wines by the glass. Friendly and helpful staff speak English and there's plenty of room and tables unless you come late. Reasonably priced. This one is definitely worth a visit if only for their incredible octopus (pulpo) dish. There's rarely a visit there when I don't order that pulpo! If you want to sit down for a meal here it's worth booking ahead. Also try their bao of pork or the squid ink taco stuffed with chocos (cuttlefish). Both delicious!
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La Candela
3 Calle Feduchy
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Consistently great little modern bar and restaurant serving excellent food (sometimes with an Asian twist) and good wines by the glass. Friendly and helpful staff speak English and there's plenty of room and tables unless you come late. Reasonably priced. This one is definitely worth a visit if only for their incredible octopus (pulpo) dish. There's rarely a visit there when I don't order that pulpo! If you want to sit down for a meal here it's worth booking ahead. Also try their bao of pork or the squid ink taco stuffed with chocos (cuttlefish). Both delicious!
There's a new great restaurant in town and it's an Argentinian place called Chancha y los 20. Being Argentinian it's very meat oriented as you'd expect, but it's good quality stuff cooked over a charcoal grill. Some cuts are expensive, yes, but if they have the entraña it's a deliciously juicy steak for about 13 Euros. Great house red wine too - a nice Mendoza Malbec. We ate really well for less than 50 Euros (three of us). You should book ahead here - it's been very busy since it's recent opening.
La Chancha y los 20
19 Calle Plocia
There's a new great restaurant in town and it's an Argentinian place called Chancha y los 20. Being Argentinian it's very meat oriented as you'd expect, but it's good quality stuff cooked over a charcoal grill. Some cuts are expensive, yes, but if they have the entraña it's a deliciously juicy steak for about 13 Euros. Great house red wine too - a nice Mendoza Malbec. We ate really well for less than 50 Euros (three of us). You should book ahead here - it's been very busy since it's recent opening.
If you want to eat outside you might get tempted to eat on nearby Calle Virgen de la Palma, which is a lovely place to watch the world go by, but I have yet to find a consistently good restaurant on it. La Dorada has been good, but the last time I was there I was massively disappointed. Meson Criollo is an ok place which has a few Argentinian specialties but recently my son was served frozen fish, which I think is unforgivable in Cádiz. The other places on this street are more miss than hit and get away with serving unimaginative crap to tourists, which is a shame. (However, if you have a good experience in one of these restaurants, I'd love to hear about it!) However, Tío de la Tiza is consistently good. It doesn't look anything special at all but it's always crammed with locals, which should tell you everything you need to know. Don't look for anything fancy here; they serve very simple fresh food (predominantly seafood) that is well cooked and cheap. Professional and friendly service coupled with its reliability is why it is always full when the weather is good. You will definitely need to book ahead here on a sunny weekend. If it's hot, ask for a shady table as some of them are hit hard by the sun in the height of summer. Try a caballa con pipirrana (locally caught mackerel with a refreshing diced salad of peppers, cucumber, tomatoes and onion) for €6 or a simply grilled dorada (black bream). The almejas (clams) here are very good also. The only downside here is a limited wine list.
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Bar Pajaro Pinto
12 Plaza Tío de la Tiza
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If you want to eat outside you might get tempted to eat on nearby Calle Virgen de la Palma, which is a lovely place to watch the world go by, but I have yet to find a consistently good restaurant on it. La Dorada has been good, but the last time I was there I was massively disappointed. Meson Criollo is an ok place which has a few Argentinian specialties but recently my son was served frozen fish, which I think is unforgivable in Cádiz. The other places on this street are more miss than hit and get away with serving unimaginative crap to tourists, which is a shame. (However, if you have a good experience in one of these restaurants, I'd love to hear about it!) However, Tío de la Tiza is consistently good. It doesn't look anything special at all but it's always crammed with locals, which should tell you everything you need to know. Don't look for anything fancy here; they serve very simple fresh food (predominantly seafood) that is well cooked and cheap. Professional and friendly service coupled with its reliability is why it is always full when the weather is good. You will definitely need to book ahead here on a sunny weekend. If it's hot, ask for a shady table as some of them are hit hard by the sun in the height of summer. Try a caballa con pipirrana (locally caught mackerel with a refreshing diced salad of peppers, cucumber, tomatoes and onion) for €6 or a simply grilled dorada (black bream). The almejas (clams) here are very good also. The only downside here is a limited wine list.
If you've had enough fish in Cádiz, this is the place to come for some really good meat with hams and sausages hanging all over the place. Tapas bar at the front, restaurant at the back (if you're lucky you'll be served by a fearsome bull of a man that looks like he takes his food as seriously as he does regularly (excellent recommendations, mind you!). Try the tapa or bigger ración of carrillada Iberica picante (slightly spicy slow-cooked Iberian pig cheek stew) and a montadito de paleta y presa iberica (juicy pork steak topped with Iberican jamón in a bread roll), or if you want something more substantial try the excellent entrecote de presa Iberica (juicy shoulder steak) or the local beef (Carne Retinto). Good selection of well priced wine, too.
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Mesón Cumbres Mayores
4 Calle Zorrilla
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If you've had enough fish in Cádiz, this is the place to come for some really good meat with hams and sausages hanging all over the place. Tapas bar at the front, restaurant at the back (if you're lucky you'll be served by a fearsome bull of a man that looks like he takes his food as seriously as he does regularly (excellent recommendations, mind you!). Try the tapa or bigger ración of carrillada Iberica picante (slightly spicy slow-cooked Iberian pig cheek stew) and a montadito de paleta y presa iberica (juicy pork steak topped with Iberican jamón in a bread roll), or if you want something more substantial try the excellent entrecote de presa Iberica (juicy shoulder steak) or the local beef (Carne Retinto). Good selection of well priced wine, too.
Over in the new town, they do not accept reservations and in high season you will need to arrive early (1 pm-1.30 pm) to get a table outside with a view of the sea. There is also a bar and some tables inside, but you're kind of missing out if you're not enjoying the sea breeze while you're tucking into some of their excellently prepared seafood. They have a surprisingly large and varied menu, but this shouldn't put you off as they serve so many people every day. The fish is the star here – they really know how to cook tuna and while available the atún de Almadraba is something special (ask them which cut they recommend). The rice dishes here are very good and very popular - The arroz del señorito (all peeled seafood ingredients) is great for kids, the arroz negro (intensely black from the squid ink) is amazing and the arroz en salsa verde con almejas y gambas (rice with parsley and garlic sauce with clams and prawns) is one of their specialties and something that you won't find every day. It's reasonably priced, but sometimes the service can be a bit tested when they're very busy. When I finish here, I normally go for an ice cream next door and then maybe a walk up to Woodstock (Paseo Maritimo, 11) for a really good (and expensive) gin & tonic. Woodstock has a terrace with fantastic views over the sea and is a great place to let your lunch go down while sipping on a few copas!
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Restaurante La Marea
1 Paseo Marítimo
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Over in the new town, they do not accept reservations and in high season you will need to arrive early (1 pm-1.30 pm) to get a table outside with a view of the sea. There is also a bar and some tables inside, but you're kind of missing out if you're not enjoying the sea breeze while you're tucking into some of their excellently prepared seafood. They have a surprisingly large and varied menu, but this shouldn't put you off as they serve so many people every day. The fish is the star here – they really know how to cook tuna and while available the atún de Almadraba is something special (ask them which cut they recommend). The rice dishes here are very good and very popular - The arroz del señorito (all peeled seafood ingredients) is great for kids, the arroz negro (intensely black from the squid ink) is amazing and the arroz en salsa verde con almejas y gambas (rice with parsley and garlic sauce with clams and prawns) is one of their specialties and something that you won't find every day. It's reasonably priced, but sometimes the service can be a bit tested when they're very busy. When I finish here, I normally go for an ice cream next door and then maybe a walk up to Woodstock (Paseo Maritimo, 11) for a really good (and expensive) gin & tonic. Woodstock has a terrace with fantastic views over the sea and is a great place to let your lunch go down while sipping on a few copas!
A bar always buzzing with local characters and not to be missed, especially considering it's proximity to the apartment. There's bullfighting memorabilia, ancient tiled floors and old photos all the way up to the ceilings. They serve good simple tapas on greaseproof paper rather than plates (try the jamón or the chicharrones (slow-roasted belly pork). At busy times there will often be a few stalls just outside selling cooked shrimps, crab claws and local oysters that they'll shuck for you and serve with lemon. If you're feeling adventurous try the bright orange gonads out of a spiky sea urchin (erizo de mar) after they expertly reveal the alien morsels with a meat cleaver whilst smoking a cigarette. Not much seating once it's busy but there's a few sherry barrels to sit around outside and a great place for people watching.
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Casa Manteca
66 Calle Corralón de los Carros
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A bar always buzzing with local characters and not to be missed, especially considering it's proximity to the apartment. There's bullfighting memorabilia, ancient tiled floors and old photos all the way up to the ceilings. They serve good simple tapas on greaseproof paper rather than plates (try the jamón or the chicharrones (slow-roasted belly pork). At busy times there will often be a few stalls just outside selling cooked shrimps, crab claws and local oysters that they'll shuck for you and serve with lemon. If you're feeling adventurous try the bright orange gonads out of a spiky sea urchin (erizo de mar) after they expertly reveal the alien morsels with a meat cleaver whilst smoking a cigarette. Not much seating once it's busy but there's a few sherry barrels to sit around outside and a great place for people watching.
Funky new bar and restaurant featuring innovative and tasty food served by topknot-wearing tattooed sockless hipsters. They really do chop out some lovely food though, although I wouldn’t call it it child friendly in the least. The bar has a nicer vibe than the windowless restaurant, and the restaurant side is pretty pricey too. In fact so is the bar. Worth a try though for sure.
La Curiosidad de Mauro Barreiro
10 Calle Veedor
Funky new bar and restaurant featuring innovative and tasty food served by topknot-wearing tattooed sockless hipsters. They really do chop out some lovely food though, although I wouldn’t call it it child friendly in the least. The bar has a nicer vibe than the windowless restaurant, and the restaurant side is pretty pricey too. In fact so is the bar. Worth a try though for sure.
This bar with seating has a small menu of well presented and well executed tapas, raciones and guisos (stews). Contemporary and innovative with good wines by the glass and a great selection of bottled beers. Update: has been a a little hit and miss lately. Although I’d still recommend it I’d go to La Candela or El Faro first.
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Ultramar&nos
1 Plaza de Mina
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This bar with seating has a small menu of well presented and well executed tapas, raciones and guisos (stews). Contemporary and innovative with good wines by the glass and a great selection of bottled beers. Update: has been a a little hit and miss lately. Although I’d still recommend it I’d go to La Candela or El Faro first.
I like this place a lot, but don't' expect anything remotely gourmet or funky daily specials here. It has just six tables outside and if you come early you can normally secure one. It's very basic, cheap and cheerful and they do some of the best puntillitas fritas (deep-fried baby squid) you'll find in Cádiz for €5 for a media ración. They also knock out a good Cabala con picadillo for €6. WARNING: after hearing a few bad reviews from guests recently, don't expect too much. However, if you stick to the really basic stuff here like the fried fish or fish / seafood a la plancha you'll probably be ok. Avoid the stews, rice and anything else that requires more than one ingredient! If you want to eat al fresco and can't get a table at Tio de la Tiza, it's worth a shot here.
El Rincon de la Morena
I like this place a lot, but don't' expect anything remotely gourmet or funky daily specials here. It has just six tables outside and if you come early you can normally secure one. It's very basic, cheap and cheerful and they do some of the best puntillitas fritas (deep-fried baby squid) you'll find in Cádiz for €5 for a media ración. They also knock out a good Cabala con picadillo for €6. WARNING: after hearing a few bad reviews from guests recently, don't expect too much. However, if you stick to the really basic stuff here like the fried fish or fish / seafood a la plancha you'll probably be ok. Avoid the stews, rice and anything else that requires more than one ingredient! If you want to eat al fresco and can't get a table at Tio de la Tiza, it's worth a shot here.
A lovely place for breakfast, if you’re feeling flush! They do nice smoothies, juices and tostadas but it isn’t cheap at all.
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LA VACA ATADA
1D Calle Nueva
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A lovely place for breakfast, if you’re feeling flush! They do nice smoothies, juices and tostadas but it isn’t cheap at all.
Arguably the best place for a nice quiet coffee in Cadiz. Part bookshop, part cafe and they do a nice breakfast too. Highly recommended!
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Clandestine Library
23 Calle José del Toro
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Arguably the best place for a nice quiet coffee in Cadiz. Part bookshop, part cafe and they do a nice breakfast too. Highly recommended!
Other bars
For a coffee, a cheeky drink, nice view etc.
Arguably the best place for a nice quiet coffee in Cadiz. Part bookshop, part cafe and they do a nice breakfast too. Highly recommended!
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Clandestine Library
23 Calle José del Toro
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Arguably the best place for a nice quiet coffee in Cadiz. Part bookshop, part cafe and they do a nice breakfast too. Highly recommended!
A lovely place for breakfast, if you’re feeling flush! They do nice smoothies, juices and tostadas but it isn’t cheap at all.
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LA VACA ATADA
1D Calle Nueva
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A lovely place for breakfast, if you’re feeling flush! They do nice smoothies, juices and tostadas but it isn’t cheap at all.
Great place to go for a gin & tonic with an unforgettable view. Even better as the sun sets right in front of you behind the Castillo. The service can be somewhat forgettable though! By the way, we don't come here for the food - tried it a few times and it just seems overpriced and a bit crap.
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Quilla, restaurante, café y terraza.
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Great place to go for a gin & tonic with an unforgettable view. Even better as the sun sets right in front of you behind the Castillo. The service can be somewhat forgettable though! By the way, we don't come here for the food - tried it a few times and it just seems overpriced and a bit crap.
Wonderfully atmospheric little sherry bar that hasn't changed much since the early 1900s. Try a cold fino with a few olives here before having lunch in La Candela on the same road. Or else do a thorough tasting journey through the different Sherry types, all the way from Manzanilla to brandy (and stagger all the way home!). English spoken.
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Taberna La Manzanilla
19 Calle Feduchy
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Wonderfully atmospheric little sherry bar that hasn't changed much since the early 1900s. Try a cold fino with a few olives here before having lunch in La Candela on the same road. Or else do a thorough tasting journey through the different Sherry types, all the way from Manzanilla to brandy (and stagger all the way home!). English spoken.
My favourite place for a G&T after a meal at neighbouring La Marea (stopping for an ice cream between the two!). Put your feet up and look out over the shimmering sea with a potent goldfish bowl full of gin and tonic and all your worries will soon slip away! Also a good place for a few beers in the evening and it'd gets lively later.
Woodstock Bar
11 Paseo Marítimo
My favourite place for a G&T after a meal at neighbouring La Marea (stopping for an ice cream between the two!). Put your feet up and look out over the shimmering sea with a potent goldfish bowl full of gin and tonic and all your worries will soon slip away! Also a good place for a few beers in the evening and it'd gets lively later.
The best bar for enjoying craft beers in Cadiz. They now have a little burger joint just opposite which isn't bad if you like a nice beer with a burger.
WoodStock
7 Calle Sagasta
The best bar for enjoying craft beers in Cadiz. They now have a little burger joint just opposite which isn't bad if you like a nice beer with a burger.
This is the little bar that you can easily walk past on your way to nearby Quilla. If you walk too close to the kitchen extractor vent you might be alerted to it's presence as you gag on the greasy fumes of it's putrid fried fish. So why am I recommending this place? Cold beer, a fantastic view and you're so close to the beach that (high tide permitting) you can do some relaxing parenting with a beer in your hand while the kids play in the sand a couple of metres in front of you. It's also very relaxing here as the waiters will be in less of a hurry than you. Obviously, avoid the food unless you're really easily pleased. The olives are ok though!
C.M.G. la Caleta
0 Av. Duque de Nájera
This is the little bar that you can easily walk past on your way to nearby Quilla. If you walk too close to the kitchen extractor vent you might be alerted to it's presence as you gag on the greasy fumes of it's putrid fried fish. So why am I recommending this place? Cold beer, a fantastic view and you're so close to the beach that (high tide permitting) you can do some relaxing parenting with a beer in your hand while the kids play in the sand a couple of metres in front of you. It's also very relaxing here as the waiters will be in less of a hurry than you. Obviously, avoid the food unless you're really easily pleased. The olives are ok though!